Finding your way around Rio is really not all that hard, even for first-timers. Most of the attractions are on the South Side of the city. The beaches, Guanabara bay and the lake are excellent references. In areas from Ipanema to Downtown you can use the subway stations for orientation.
On foot
Walking is one of the best way to explore South Side neighborhoods. Pick out the right hotel and walk your way to the beaches, excellent restaurants, shopping,
movies, theaters, concert halls, and all other conveniences. Invest on a good pair of walking shoes, and a sun hat. A stroll along
thebeach on Sunday is almost mandatory. One of the lanes is closed to cars, and
pedestrians take over in grand style.
Bicycle & skates
There are bicycle lanes connecting all South Side neighborhoods, from
Leblon to Leme and beyond. Go across the tunnel connecting you to Botafogo and
reach the Flamengo reclaim one of the biggest urban parks in the world. There's another bicycle
lane around Lagoa that is also very scenic. Many locals go two wheels, sharing
the lane with rollerbladers, skaters and joggers. You may rent a bicycle at Ipanema Beach or Copacabana Beach on Sundays.
Yellow taxis
You don't have to go far to find a taxi in Rio - they are everywhere.
And hard to miss, too - taxis are a bright yellow, blue stripe on the sides.
Yellow taxis run by the meter. The initial fare is R$2.70, and the meter starts
ticking as soon as you get in. After 9 p.m. and on weekends fares are a little
higher (the meter is set to bandeira 2). You do not need to give fat tips: R$1
is plenty enough. Some taxis are air-conditioned at no extra charge.
A word to the wise: do not agree on pre-paid deals with yellow
taxis. They are illegal, and probably mean the driver is trying to take
advantage of you. Hail the next cab. We've heard of taxis trying to pull this
dirty trick right at the door of a couple of 5-star hotels, the bus station,
domestic airport, and even a shopping mall in Botafogo. To give you an idea of rates, a ride from Ipanema to Copacabana or
Leblon is about R$5; to Downtown about R$15-20; to the international airport or
Barra about R$30.
Radio taxis
A more sophisticated alternative, radio taxis may be white, blue or red.
Cars are bigger and usually air-conditioned. Call one of the companies
providing this kind of service and tell them where to pick you up, where to
drop you off, and at what time. Some radio-taxis charge by the meter, others charge
flat rates. Ask for all details first. They will need from you a a contact
phone to call you back and confirm the ride.
Subway
Rio's subway is still relatively small, but it is very safe, comfortable
and reliable. It is especially useful to take you from Copacabana to Botafogo,
Flamengo, Gloria and Downtown. You can use the subway as reference if you
decide to explore Downtown on your own. The subway does not yet reach Ipanema,
Leblon, and Barra. Cars stop running at 11 p.m., and on weekends. One-way tickets
are about US$1.50. If you have a chance, stop at the Cardeal Arcoverde Station,
in Copacabana. The color scheme on the walls is supposed to relax you, and
includes a rainbow of exquisite shades of Brazilian granite. Before you make
your way down the escalators, don't stop looking up until you discover Batman's
vent. Seriously. There is one huge air conduct where they actually put a giant
black metal bat symbol (as in Gotham City). Another proof of the unique Carioca sense of humor. Use the map below for orientation.
Air-conditioned buses
Locally known as frescão (fresh-caun) - the fresh guys -
air-conditioned buses can be hailed, just like taxis. They run along the beach,
and connect South Side neighborhoods to each other, downtown, the airport and
Barra. They do not have a fixed schedule posted on the street, though. As they
are not as frequent as regular buses, you may have to wait for a few minutes.
Beach corners and the right in front of lifeguard stations are the
informal stops. Take a ticket from the lady sitting in the front, and choose a
seat. Later she will charge you and give your change. You may ask the driver to
drop you off anywhere along the way. This service is available only during the
day. Standard buses now also offer an air-conditioned version that is cheaper
than the frescão. You pay as you pass the turnstile, and they stop at the
regular bus stops.
Buses
Rio's most popular means of transportation, yet the trickiest to master.
A ride on a circular line bus is less than R$2. There are bus lines connecting
the whole city, and you do not need exact change. There is a
professional known as cobrador sitting behind a turnstile to collect
your money, and give you change.
Buses are not air-conditioned, and at rush hours they may look more like
sardine cans. Safety is an issue to consider. Sometimes pickpockets and petty
thieves take advantage of crowded buses to prey upon commuters. Someone alone
with a US$2,000 camera looking out the window mesmerized by Rio's natural
beauties spells victim all over. If you take regular buses try to look
like you belong, do not carry valuables, nor wear jewelry
Vans
While you are waiting for a bus or taxi chances are a van will stop, and
offer to take you to your destination. These vans are not completely regulated,
yet they are tolerated by authorities. This means if anything goes wrong, you
do not have where to complain. We cannot recommend this kind of service until
it is legalized. This does not apply to licensed vans that work together with
travel agencies to take you on tours, theater, and other events.
Cars
With a new driving code and heavier fines and penalties, drivers in Rio
de Janeiro are starting to act almost civilized. Now many cars actually stop at
red lights, at least during the day, and drivers and passengers do wear a
seatbelt. Hidden cameras forced speedsters to slow down in roads like the Red
Line (connecting to the airport), and at other problem areas.
You do not need a car to get around the South Side, but it makes sense
to rent one if you choose to stay in Barra, São Conrado, or take short trips Off-Rio. As parking is not very easy in Rio,
consider staying in an all suite hotel - a parking spot is often part of the package. To secure the best rates
available rent your car online, and pick it up at the international airport or in Copacabana. A
compact with insurance and unlimited mileage will cost you about U$70 a day.
( www.ipanema.com)
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